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A Normal Whelping

wAbout a week before your bitch is due to whelp, it is important that she is moved to her whelping quarters. She should be given time to get used to her whelping box and surroundings as well as the new routine and the new smells.

wTraditionally the whelping box was wooden with rails inside, about 10cm above the base so that the bitch was not able to 'crush' the puppies against the side. The more modern whelping boxes are made of uPVC for hygiene purposes, or even disposable cardboard whelping boxes are fine.

wSome breeders prefer a child's inflatable paddling pool which does not need rails and provides soft, cushioned sides. They are cheap to buy but have strong smell which your dog may not be happy with.

Early signs

wMany bitches will display nesting behaviour in the days leading up to the birth. Signs will include scratching up of the bedding and an attempt at burrowing.

wThey may also become rather restless and more clingy with you and follow you everywhere.

wA sudden drop in temperature within 24hours of birth may be sign that the birth is imminent. It is normal for the temperature to go up and down slightly but when it suddenly drops from around 39˚C to around 37˚C you may be sure that whelping is about to start.

wThe majority of bitches (like humans), will whelp at night, so as vets, we are usually ready for midnight call-outs!

 

 
 

Stage 1

The cervix starts to dilate. During this time, it is quite normal for your bitch to refuse food, become restless, start to pant and even vomit.

You may also see external signs of very weak contractions. This stage can last from one hour to more than 1 day and it is often difficult to be certain when it started.

 

Pup in sac

newborn pup

feeding pup

 

 

Stage 2

The cervix dilates fully, contractions become more obvious and the stage ends with the delivery of the puppy. As the urge to push becomes stronger, your bitch's straining is very noticeable.

It is quite normal for her to shiver at this time.

Before the first pup is born, there is often a greenish-black discharge or lochia which is as a result of the placenta separating from the uterus. It is important that you note the time of this discharge, as in an uncomplicated whelping, the first pup should be born within the next 2 hours.

Puppies may be born in anterior presentation ie with the nose and front paws first, or in posterior presentation ie with tail and hind feet first - either is quite normal.

In the uterus, each pup is surrounded by two sacs - the outer one, the allantochorion, tends to rupture as the pup enters the birth canal.

The second sac, the amnion, may or may not rupture during birth. If it does not, the bitch will break the sac to release the puppy, enabling it to begin breathing. She will also bite the umbilical cord and lick the puppy vigorously, stimulating it to breathe and dry off.

You may need to intervene at this stage to open the sac so that the pup can start to take its first breath. If you do need to cut the cord, it is essential that you do not cut the cord too short and that it is torn with your fingernails rather than cut with a sharp blade as this will cause bleeding.

The puppy must be rubbed quite vigorously with a towel which will mimic the bitch's licking action to stimulate breathing and circulation. Some breeders choose to put butter on the pups to encourage the mother to lick them.

Your bitch should suckle pups between births. This si so important to allow as the sucking will stimulate the release of oxytocin; increasing milk let-down and causing further contractions of the uterus.

 

licking pup

Stage 3

The foetal membranes and placenta are passed. As the bitch is a litter-bearing mammal, stages 2 and 3 very often alternate.

There is a difference of opinion as to whether a bitch should be allowed to eat the placentas, but I am of the firm belief that we should only interfere when necessary. In other words, if she chooses to do so, I would have no objection, after all, in the wild there would be no-one there to remove them.

Timing

wThere is no definite timescale between the second and third stages of parturition as some puppies are born within minutes of the previous one and yet it is not unknown for a bitch to go several hours between puppies.

wThe main criterion is whether or not the process is progressing and it is important to observe the bitch during this time. Although there is no need for alarm if there are extended periods between pups, it is very dangerous to allow the the bitch to have continual contractions for a prolonged period without producing a puppy.

wThis is the time when we step in. Sometimes a car journey to the vets will stimulate another birth and I have had a few instances where clients have arrived ar the surgery with more pups than when they left home!

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